South Africa
By Simon HarrisI’m back, for all that is worth, from 2 amazing weeks in South Africa. It is a truly amazing place. I have travelled a lot over the years but S.A. just blew me away. Words simply cannot adequately describe the beauty and splendour of the country.
The people are a little like Australians or possibly even New Zealanders in temperement and sense of humour. They are incredibly kind. The difference being the racial makeup. The large african population makes the place just amazing. The people are so happy in what can often be dire circumstances. Especially in the shanty towns (or “townships” as they are known) where literally millions of displaced people “live”.
Thankfully for most of the time at least, there was hardly a hint of racism. Unfortunately it does still exist especially the further out from a major city you get. When I did encounter it I was nearly brought to tears, followed by rage and then a sense of helplessness as I realised there was nothing I could do. It goes both ways and whatever justification or pseudo-scientific mumbo jumbo either side can concoct, when it comes down to it is 100% cultural bias, ingrained from birth and for which the only cure is time.
I started to pick up a little Afrikaans. “Who undid my bra?” is a pretty close approximation for the pronunciation of “How are you?”. Well at least now you’ll remember it :). I even started to sound like a local. It’s a great language with an unfortunate heritage. I would still like to learn more.
The food is just incredible and a downright steal for anyone with foreign currency - I don’t think we had one bad meal anywhere. Boerwors (long beef sausages), ostrich steaks, biltong (dried meat like jerky), bobootie (like shepherds pie), you name it.
The wines are pretty good, especially the whites and cabs. Can’t say I enjoyed the local Merlot or Shiraz much. Whatever your tastes it’s certainly worth checking out the wineries of Stellenbosch, etc.
I spent most of my time in Cape Town which is in itself an amazing place to visit. You could spend a year there and still not get through all the things to do - most of which are free or as close to free as you can get. The weather, in Cape Town at least, is a lot like Perth. In fact The Waterfront can be compared to Fremantle only a lot bigger. The further north you go the more humid it becomes but I seemed to aclimatise pretty quickly. Lucky really as no one seems to have heard of fans, let alone air-conditioning :-)
We hired a car which for us was the ideal way to get around. It just gave us the freedom to do whatever we wanted, when we wanted. So some tips for the roads:
- Speeding is the norm and fines do apply however they are rarely followed up on. We met people who had outstanding fines from 10 years ago;
- Drink driving is not tolerated and will likely land you in jail;
- Watch out for mini-bus taxis as they are generally over-filled, are rarely road worthy and seem to have a total disregard for anyone else on the road;
- Watch out for expensive mercedes benz as they are usually doing about twice the legal limit and have a total disregard for anyone else on the road;
- It is normal to move over to let other cars pass you which happens all too often on blind corners, hills and over solid white lines and sometimes in both directions at once!;
- If you overtake someone it is customary to flash your hazard lights a couple of times to say “thank-you”;
- If you are overtaken and someone flashes their hazard lights, it is customary to flash your headlights one or twice in acklowledgement;
- And finally, the annual road toll for South Africa is…a staggering 10,000!
Just some of the things I saw and did:
- Hiked up Table Mountain starting at Kirstenbosh. Takes anywhere between 2-8 hours depending on your level of fitness and the route you take. Be careful of the “Table Cloth” that rolls in to engulf the entire mountain top. If high winds are predicted, you can pretty much forget climbing it as you won’t be able to see a thing;
- Took the cable car up Table Mountain;
- Lions Head sits beside Table Mountain and is a gentle 45 minute walk;
- Kirstenbosh is quite an amazing botanic gardens at the foot of Table Mountain. It’s the biggest gardens I think I’ve ever seen and home to some of the most amazing Proteas. It has to be seen to be believed;
- The Waterfront as I mentioned earlier. Shops, cafes, bars, more shops, boat rides, restauarants, German beer gardens at which MANY MANY pints of “anniversary ale” were consumed;
- Mountain biked around the Cape Of Good Hope, Cape Point, etc. through amazing national parks. Rode past snakes, turtles, lizards, and baboons all within metres of us;
- The wineries of course!;
- The open top double decker bus tour of Cape Town;
- Green Point market where you’ll find just about every kind of hand-made souvenier or gift you could ever hope for;
- Camps Bay where all the youngsters hang out on the beach. Mind the water though as the temperature sits somewhere between 11C and 13C;
- The wineries of course!;
- Visited a private game reserve. Name an animal and I saw it, up close. Our guide, and UNIMOG driver, Nadia was cause for a mild case of khaki fever ;-)
- Rode an African Elephant;
- Swam in a lagoon in the middle of nowhere. It reminded me of something out of Tarzan :).
And that was day one! Just kidding but seriously there is so much to do. I didn’t get to do anywhere near as much as I would have liked. Some of the things I want to do next time I visit include:
- Rock climb Table Mountain;
- Visit Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was impresoned;
- Hike some more mountains - there are too many to name!;
- Mountain bike through Kruger national park;
- Visit Pretoria and Sun City;
- …
To top it all off, I was caught in a natural disaster. The small town I was staying in, Heidelberg, about 4 hours out of Cape Town, suffered the worst flooding ever recorded - 189mm of rain in 24hours. The rivers swelled and took out bridges and roads. Farms were flooded and crops destroyed. I saw cattle drown and two storey buildings submerged. Phones and electricty cut-off. Amazingly none of it managed to fall into the dams currently sitting at 15% capacity at the start of what is usually the driest season of the year. And all in front of my eyes. If you’ve ever seen a flood on TV, it really doesn’t do justice to the awesome power of Mother Nature at her worst.
If you’re thinking of visiting Cape Town, make sure you call Sally de Jager. We found her details on the ’net and from there organised a guided mountain bike tour of The Cape. She is a magnificent guide and a wondeful person. She is very knowledgeable and will literally organise whatever tour at whatever price you can afford. For us she organised a hike, followed by biking around the cape then it was off to sit on one of the many beaches to drink wine and watch the sun go down. Oh and her boyfriend is an Australian so she understands us :-).
As I mentioned at the start, it would take me a month to describe all that I expereinced in 2 weeks. Certainly a life changing trip. So if you’ve ever even contemplated a visit, do it!